Installing a Stealth Acoustics Invisible Speaker is as simple as fitting a drywall patch! The speakers are built on a solid frame and baffle board that contain the traditional drivers, exciters, and crossovers found in most speakers. This portion mounts directly to the structural framing. The face of the speaker is smooth and durable and is designed to finish in a similar fashion to the wallboard surrounding it.
Beyond the Wall sub download
In new construction, PlaceSavers must be installed at the time when the job is pre-wired. Installing the PlaceSaver reserves the exact space for the speaker without subjecting the speaker panel to the harsh construction environment that it would be exposed to if it were installed before drywall. Exposing the unfinished speaker to long periods of high humidity, as sometimes found on a job site, should also be avoided. The PlaceSavers maintains the perfect size cutout for the speaker after the drywall installation is completed.
Remove the PlaceSavers once the drywall has been hung but not yet mudded and painted. Keep the PlaceSaver for future projects as they can be used over and over. A perfect size cutout should be maintained for the speaker once PlaceSaver is removed.
After the wallboard is installed around the speaker location, but before seam taping and mudding occurs, check speaker registration and wallboard thickness. Press the speaker panel into the opening to check the flushness of the perimeter of the speaker panel with the surrounding wallboard. (See the image to the left)
For correct registration, the perimeter edge of the face panel must be flush with the adjoining wallboard. It is critical to use the correct number of shims in Step 4 so that these surfaces are flush with one another. A failure to do this can (though rare) result in cracking around the perimeter of the speaker, caused by the uneven tape around the joint.
The screw flange perimeter of the speaker panel must be flush with wallboard, if it is recessed behind the wallboard, use the provided shims to bring the speaker panel flush. Tape is also provided to attach the shims to the backside of the speaker panel where the screw holes will align with the framing. Do not use the provided shim tape for taping and mudding the drywall.
Note: The typical installations shown above are provided as guidelines. For your installation, the number and thickness of shims needed may differ due to variances in wallboard material and other construction variables.
The detail to the right shows where to properly install the shims if needed to bring the edge of the speaker panel flush with the wallboard surrounding the speaker. Notice that more shims are required for thicker wallboard.
Attach the speaker panels directly to the structural framing using the provided drywall screws. The panels have been pre-drilled with the proper number of holes. Be sure that all of the screws are installed and that they hold securely to the framing.
Screws are not needed on the horizontal sides of the speaker panel that do not have framing behind them. Be sure to maintain flushness between the perimeter screw flange of the speaker panel and the surrounding wallboard. Do not use nails.
In-wall subwoofers need to be professionally installed with special boxes that are designed to hold the subwoofer cabinet in place and isolate it from the rest of the room. Done properly, it can be an effective solution. One thing to remember: In-wall subwoofers are really expensive because they often require external amplification, crossovers, and a lot of labor to install them properly.
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Rain penetration into masonry can occur in buildings of all ages. At its most obvious, it penetrates the wall and displays as a damp patch on the internal wall. This causes discolouration, paint and wallpaper peeling and flaking.
Water soaks through the exterior wall, where it travels through to the interior walls. There, moisture manifests as wet spots on the wall. These patches of penetrating damp damage wallpaper, plaster and the walls themselves.
Rain penetration is not a problem that is restricted to single-skin walls. Poorly installed wall-ties or cavity wall insulation can provide a pathway for rain penetration to track through cavity walls.
In other cases, rain penetration can be caused by the masonry wall not being weathertight enough to withstand local weather conditions. Often the weathertightness of the masonry can be improved using external render, cladding, or weatherproof paints. However, these solutions all change the visual appearance of the masonry.
Any building defects should be fixed as soon as possible. They can let in a constant source of dampness which ruins internal walls, wallpaper, decor and belongings as well as the external building fabric.
The more it rains, the more water permeates brickwork. Damp patches on interior walls increase in size during periods of heavy rain. The best way to treat penetrating damp involves the use of a water repellent treatment like Stormdry Masonry Protection Cream. This can halt further dampness and allow walls to dry out.
Just as moisture seeps through to the inside, penetrating damp can too. Leaking appliances like boilers introduce moisture into walls. Water then travels through brickwork and masonry in the same way that rain does. Regular maintenance of boilers, radiators, water heaters, washing machines and taps is essential to keep your home dry.
It can be difficult to define which type of damp causes patches, mould, wallpaper and plaster damage inside the home. The key to correctly identifying penetrating damp is the height at which it manifests.
Sunlight, minerals and water make up the recipe for algae growth. Damp exterior walls have all 3 in abundance. Although algae looks fragile, those spidery green spores are incredibly resilient. Their roots burrow deep into brickwork, taking hold within walls.
Plasterboard swells and softens, while plaster blisters and flakes. This damage is aesthetic and structural. It weakens and damages the finish of the wall while providing the perfect conditions for mould to grow.
Black mould can grow on exterior walls too. Black mould thrives in wet, warm and humid conditions. The combination of cold weather, warm interior heating and wet walls means can cause black mould to grow alongside penetrating damp.
Where wooden fixtures, furniture and skirting boards directly contact the damp wall, the moisture transfers through. Where fungal spores are present, this can cause wet rot. Penetrating damp causes serious damage if it reaches structural timber and will need immediate professional attention.
A modern cavity wall specification usually includes weep holes. These are intended to provide an exit path for moisture. These holes connect to cavity trays inside the wall, which collect and divert the moisture that penetrates the wall.
With the moisture safely diverted out of the wall, penetrating damp cannot soak through to the interior wall. Assuming the weep holes and cavity trays are installed correctly, this type of construction is effective at keeping out penetrating damp.
However, in properties that date earlier than the 1920s, solid walls are the most common type of housing construction. Exactly as it sounds, solid wall construction means that there is a single unbroken wall dividing the interior from the exterior. As brick and wood are porous materials, solid wall constructions are much more vulnerable to penetrating damp than cavity walls.
Regular home maintenance can help to prevent penetrating damp. Plumbing and central heating are common causes of damp within the home. Boilers must be serviced annually. Plumbing must be regularly checked to ensure that pipes are not corroded or leaking. Small leaks have been known to drip onto adjoining walls for a long time before anyone notices.
Breathable, colourless [1] water-repellents offer a solution in situations where there is a desire to maintain the visual appearance of the masonry. They work by lining the pores in the masonry rather than blocking them. This allows the wall to breathe naturally and allows any moisture present in the masonry substrate to escape.
The most important factor in treating penetrating damp is to ensure that walls no longer allow moisture and water ingress. Black mould can be treated inside the home with biocidal sprays like Dryzone Mould Removal and Prevention Kit. However, unless the root cause is fixed, penetrating damp will reoccur. External algae, lichen and moss growth must be treated and removed before further damp treatments are carried out. 2ff7e9595c
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